Thanks to the ChatBox

[lsabourin]

I was on the chatBox the other night and found out about a Magic recipe for use with AutoAir. Thanks to Yardanut (Mrs Peanut) the following mix used at ~10% with AA is amazing! Paint flows like the best stuff you'll ever use!

1 oz rubbing alcohol
4 oz water
1/2 oz Fantastic
2 DROPS glycerin

everything available at your local Pharmacy

L

[fresnojohns]

Cool to hear!!!!!! I have always had strange stuff happen with that.
Thanks for sharing Luc.
Fresnojohns

[fontgeek]

Be careful with the Fantastic, I have seen a lot of brushes with the chrome permenantly damaged from the use of it.

[foe]

I wonder how clearcoat reacts with that mix???

[fresnojohns]

That is a good question too. Like I said above that I had strange stuff happen. I have never really got it to work right . I have always used the
stock factory or thin with water only mix. Maybe we can have a discussion about this type of paint again. I would like to know it better. I don't have the place to spray solvent type paints.

Thanks for posting this. I am still curious if a solvent type clear will stick good over a water base type paint also. I have alot to learn about this
type of paint.

Fresnojohns

[lsabourin]

Fresno, AA is the only stuff I use. No problem clearing that stuff. This mix is like the 4011 stuff (but better) you shouldn't go more than 1:3 with it. Yard has been using this mix for a long time and she has had no issues with clearing, peeling or whatever. I'll definitely be using it on a test project in the next couple of days. I'll be back with results

[yardartnut]

Originally Posted by fontgeek

Be careful with the Fantastic, I have seen a lot of brushes with the chrome permenantly damaged from the use of it.

I never had problems with Fantastic, but if anyones has caution flags with it this can be mixed also :
6 parts water
1 parts [denatured] alchohol
2 drop glycerine

[Pelts]

Yard, I have never used AA and I guess I am a bit confused here.
1 oz rubbing alcohol
4 oz water
1/2 oz Fantastic
2 DROPS glycerin Is this a batch you mix up and keep in a container? So when you want to thin AA you put the paint yo want into a container and then add this mix a little at a time until you get the consistency you want? OMG I feel like a big dummy here. I've wanted to use AA for some time now but better get straight on this first. Thanks

Pelts

[lsabourin]

That's right Pelts. Mix it all up in an old bottle and add it dropwise to your paint. I used it last night at about 1:5.

L

[Pelts]

OK, if I have this correct, It would be 1 drop mix to 5 drops paint?

[lsabourin]

That's Correct

L

[Pelts]

Thanks L,

I have been mixing Createx way to long. It's a easy when all you have to remember is water to a milk consistence. I really need to get my act together. Again, thanks for setting me straight on this.

Pelts

[BigDaddyCustoms]

OK,
I'm looking at this from a hard surface painter's perspective (auto and bike art).......

So my question is, why not use the new reducers (4011 and 4010)? They are not that expensive, and have been chemically engineered for use with AA. Anytime that you do not follow the manufacturer's specifications for use, they cannot help you or are responsible in any way, for any problems that arise down the road. If you are "Kitchen-engineering" your own formulas to be used with a product, all sorts of bad things can happen to a customer's work in the future (color fade, peeling, adhesion issues, compatability with other uro paints, reactions to clear-coats, etc)......and that's something that I wouldn't feel comfortable with.

Manufacturers put their name on the bottle for a reason. They've tested and approved it for use with their product specifically (and for use with other products as well). They stand behind their product, and if there is ever a technical question, problem, or issue, they can help. But not if you added your home brew to the equation.

Now, for test panels and general "tom foolery" type of painting, I can see why you might want to save a buck or two, but it's a minimal saving at best.

Just my 2 cents......I've seen guys burned in the past using their own mix with disasterous results (with no recourse to be compensated). Guess it's a case of user beware.

Big D

[brushbyair]

BDC, you make some good points, but one I will challenge you on, show me one company that will reimburse you for the time spent in painting the art, granted they may reimburse you for the cost of materials, but as you stated they are not that expensive! So in the end no matter what you use "Home Brew" or "store bought" you will never recover the lost art expenses. In fact Createx, AA's sister paint has adopted formulas sent in from customers willing to experiment to develop a better reducer for their paints. I guess it comes down to your own personal preferences, and as we all know even the "Proven Products" have had failures even when following their directions to the letter. Not writing this for sake of argument, just giving another view point. I know for my application with Createx on canvas and metals such as mailboxes and satelitte dishes I have had no problems with it, no fading, no blistering, no peeling and some of my stuff has been exposed to the sun for about a year now.

[yardartnut]

K folks I kinda sat back and not tried to post an argument or promotion for or against the reducer mix I use...but I think miss info is getting posted and a bit confusion is headed over the issue...

The original thread on this forum I posted 02/08 'it worked for me' ......yes I have as much and maybe more at stake as anyone if my product fails.....Airbrushing is not a hobby for me... I have been here several years and Abrushing since 96...I have never had a product of mine EVER be returned due to a failure in the material I use. I would never post a tip or information that I have not experience myself that would ever damage a person, an animal, equipment or any other thing.......I dont get info and then run post it here......I work it first and see if its safe..so if anyone loses out it would be me......

Only a few where at the chat box session when this was brought up as to the mix, and I always say it works for me, but as we all know what works for me may not work for you..We had a fair chat about it...and everything about the mix was pretty much covered......So it worked for Luc and he praised it in this post....

I had hundreds of dollars of createx and AA on the shelf that I could not get consitant no matter what I tried when I was notified of the mix/// right after the mix was released/// Createx over a year ago released a statment that they had added the glycerin at 1/10th of a % to their waterbourne product line EVEN THE RUDUCER....the info was on their official AA web site -thus If the batch code doesn't contain a "#" sign in it, it is the newer formula.So if you are an AA user, and bought the new batch in the last year ......you ARE using part of my posted mix and ya didnt even know it.....

Other members jumped on the boat and they have had great results...
and straight from the horses mouth ...Craig Frazier has used the denatured alcohol, and glycerin trick for years...

That leaves only the water factor for an issue, and we all know what water can do if thinned too much ....


AS to it being a cost saving issue [ver. AAreducer]...not for me it wasnt....I could not shoot createx/AA paint...this formula made it FLO consitant for me...the only cost saving part of the whole deal.... I got to use the paint that I had already spent so much on that was doomed to a shelf life....


Here is what to be careful...dont over do it with the the amount glycerin...[no if a lil does good ....alot does not do better] Too MUCH glyc can break the binder factor!
and it really works best with the medical grade glycerin instead of the food/hobby grade

I did not invent the mix, and have stated many times on here...it worked for me.....It was invented by someone with far more brain power than I have!
I may kid, rib, and laff alot here, but when it comes to a high quality product that last...Im in with the BIG DOGS! This mix was officially added to our product in Oct 2007...

See I test large scale:
BUG OFF was done with the mix
Here is the worst conditions I can set it in ..
under a tree/direct sunlight/cat traffic
.it has been there in that spot for a year now...not moved at all!
Im posting todays shots- other than grrrrr me razor cuts as a flaw on my part [*note that I have since found a new trick for eliminating]
it has NO ISSUES with exposure to eliments!

Thanks all!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[KDSilverBrush]

^5 Yardnut .... the artwork still looks great !