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air valve replace
AIRBRUSH HELP DESK
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12-31-2007
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#1 (permalink)
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MEMBER
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
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air valve replace
 Happy New Year , I'm new to this site. Was wondering if anyone can tell me how the air valve body(inner Sleeve) of a HP BCS can be replaced. I've located a new one but not sure how to remove and replace. Press fit?? screws in /out?? Thanks in advance for any replys ''Wayne From Hugo''
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01-02-2008
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#2 (permalink)
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magazine subscriber
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 442
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Re: air valve replace
Wayne, there is a small clip ring in the bottom end of the airvalve, it is kind of like the letter "C" with a small hole at both ends. With small tweezers or a specialized tool, you put the points of the tool or tweezers in the two holes, then squeeze them together and pull them towards you. By contracting the two ends of the "C", you reduce the diameter, which in turn lets you pull them from the groove they normally sit in. Once you have pulled that out, you can remove the rest of the pieces. You can download the exploded drawings from Iwata's website for your particular brush. This will tell you all the pieces you should be seeing or looking for, and it will also give you a guide for reassembling your airvalve.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
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01-03-2008
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#3 (permalink)
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MEMBER
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 13
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Re: air valve replace
Quote:
Originally Posted by fontgeek
Wayne, there is a small clip ring in the bottom end of the airvalve, it is kind of like the letter "C" with a small hole at both ends. With small tweezers or a specialized tool, you put the points of the tool or tweezers in the two holes, then squeeze them together and pull them towards you. By contracting the two ends of the "C", you reduce the diameter, which in turn lets you pull them from the groove they normally sit in. Once you have pulled that out, you can remove the rest of the pieces. You can download the exploded drawings from Iwata's website for your particular brush. This will tell you all the pieces you should be seeing or looking for, and it will also give you a guide for reassembling your airvalve.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything I can do to help.
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Thanks fontgeek, all taken care of. I posted the out come in ''general discussion'' it actualy feel out tuesday nite after I decided to ream it with a drill bit. I know.. but desperate and figured I had nothing to loose. It was after I got the drill out,that it just feel out while lightly honing it. Today I spent over a hundred bucks and bought all sorts of new parts for my BCS and my badger 150. Needles, heads, vavles for both. Lil' pricey but had to do it. Thursday I start my Faux chrome project, reproducing car emblems on total restoration. 1967 barracuda, weeded what I needed for tomorrow and put my brushes back together. little anxious to get this started, been in the works way to long and jus' want to get it done. I feel confidant to make final result look good ,having a lil' hard time on a couple of the emblems as far as what order to tackle it... (multi steps.) Had masks cut and recut.Guy has alot of cash into it so far and all I've painted is the double stripes down the sides. He loved 'em. Hey one thing ..I'm not to sure about how to escape these threads or stop them , not even sure what protocol is . Don't want people tired of reading ,em,know what I mean? Or maybe it's not a big deal. But thanks for your concern this has been kinda addicting checking for replies. For now all is cool.Maybe I'll get some photos up when I'm done. Callin it a day, thanks again. Wayne
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01-03-2008
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#4 (permalink)
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magazine subscriber
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 442
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Re: air valve replace
Wayne, I hope it works for you.
For the future, I would strongly suggest that you A> add a filter in your system that sits close to where you work, this will help keep the air that is going into your airbrush clean. B> Avoid situations that can cause these kinds of problems. Submerging your airbrush in any liquids, especially solvents for your paints, doing this can free up paint and debris that can get lodged in places like your trigger well, the handle area, and the airvalve, none of which were ever meant to be exposed to either the paint or the solvents, even things like water. C> Never use abrasives or corrosive materials like ammonia or ammonia based products in your airbrush, also be careful with any solvents you use in your airbrush, there are several that will permenantly screw up Teflon packing and seals, not to mention what they can do to your body and health.
Good luck, let me know if there is anything I can do to help you.
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