Need to do entire cc when doing small area?

If I want to use the existing paint job on my motorcycle as a basecoat and do relatively small paintings here and there, do I need to have all the parts clear coated when it's done or can I use something like the U Pol #1 to blend it in? I have lots of areas on my bike that I'd like to do something on, but it seems like a waste to redo the whole paint job since it's perfect right now and I'd have alot of disassembling to dobecause it has fenders, tank, side covers, fairing, saddlebags and rear trunk. If the answer is "yes", how would you go about scuffing just the area you're going to paint? Mask it, trim the design and then scuff inside the "stencil"?

[grinnen30]

I recently painted a panel on my car (after a catastropic skateboard accident leaving a dent in the car...then having to fix it)...

Anyway, I was given a real good tip, and there was some information on the product spec sheet on how to do it...

Here is a summary...

Clear coat the immediate area to be protected...

Then reduce the clearcoat further (my clear coat spec'd out at 100-150%...so I did a couple of light coats at 100% reduced...then another at 150%....)

Anyway, it came out real nice and faded into the existing clear coat just fine...

OK Grinnen, so it seems as though from your experience it can be blended in. Thank you for telling me your experience.

[cmonty54]

Hi,

I want to do the same thing to my bike and had the same question. I was wondering if I used 1 shot would that be enough of a clear coat??

Seems to me I read somewhere on this site that One Shot would be the product to use if you weren't going to use a topcoat. Double check though since I'm still a novice.
I'd like to try the U Pol #1 and see if it would do the trick. One part spray application sounds very appealing, but I don't know how professional the results could be.

[grinnen30]

That I do not know...and I cannot speak to the long term durability of spot clearing job...I received the tip from a professional jobber and was able to confirm it on the spec sheet...but that doesn't mean much...Personally, I put two wet coats on, and then a layer of 100% reduced, and a layer of 150% reduced...this part of the spec sheet was not that clear.

If I'm catching your drift, Grinnen, you used a two part clear? Definitely not a rattle can like the U Pol, so I would think you'd be in good shape with your job. Since I live in Jersey, the best part of the riding season is over anyway, so I'm going to take the time to experiment a little. If I mess it up too bad, I could always hire someone here to do a nice paint job for me!!!

[Slamin Sam]

With most of the newer high solids clears it is not recommended to do clear blends, but it can be done. The possible problems are haloing or peeling. But as I said it can be done. You really need something with more bite than just over reduced clear, this is one product you can use, DX830 - UNIVERSAL BLENDER. There are more products out there though.

Sam

[grinnen30]

Yes I used a two part...but as my reducer, I used a spot and panel reducer instead of just a normal reducer...this is SUPPOSED to act like a blending mixture according to the paint shop (whether it does or not will probably not be seen for a couple of years)...but heck...if it does peel...I will take it down...come up with a graphic for it and then redo it

Overall, the new is worn off...Take a 2005, and combine the spot fix with the $12K+ wreck my wife was in with a semi that the shop did a half-(fill in the blank)-ed job on. I figured that with the damage that the SHOP caused that they tried to patch, I wasn't doing anymore damage (the shop did okay, after returning it FOUR times to fix stuff THEY messed up...deeply scratched interior panels, hand prints on my interior, small cut in my leather seat, etc...still didn't get 100%...gave up...but the paint came out okay )

Oh well...this is what I would like to do when I grow up...just another learning experience (mind you I am 30)