Detail Airbrush? Which is best.

Here's my take on the subject.


Generally speaking it is easier to get finer detail with a gravity feed airbrush
(check out www.airbrushhowto.com ) . Because a gravity feed requires lower air pressure to get good paint atomization than a siphon feed. Lower pressure allows you to work closer to your working surface and move slower making it easier to get nice fine detail. Smaller tip, needle used in most gravity feed airbrushs will dif. help also.

check out http://www.airbrushtechnique.com/Reviewpost for some ideas, product reviews

With that being said though there are tons of artists doing some amazing work with siphon feed ( www.blairairbrushing.com ) Kicks uses a Iwata Eclipse BCS ( .5mm I believe ) . So as you can see its the hand that controls the airbrush that determines the final out come.

Harrydidit (www.lizardco.com) and dangerustoy use single action airbrushs and turn out some amazing work ever bit as nice or better than a lot of work rendered with double action airbrushes.

So what works best for fine detail.

PRACTICE , PRACTICE . PRACTICE its the hand and mind that controls the airbrush that renders the art work not the airbrush. Don't allow what other artists say determine what you can do with any airbrush.Certainly listen but in the end it's your skill with ANY airbrush that will produce the end results.

[vilner]

Don, excellent points! Your last paragraph said it all. The work of the guys you mentioned is outstanding to say the least. I would just like to add that a nice double action airbrush does make it easier to learn on and control the spray of the airbrush than a single action. And by single action airbrush I am talking about the Paasche H or say the Badger 350 external mix ones. The design of a internal mix airbrushes have better needle/nozzles and offer the advantages of better atomization of the paint and better accuracy in where the paint goes and they offer much less over spray.
John

for helping out , its a question i hear most often so i figured we might just as well post it

[$StreetBrushin$]

ok i got a bottle where i can put my paint in and i got this little thing that you connect and you just pour paint in there and it sux it up with one would be better to use...

FYI :they are both at the bottom of the airbrush

paasche VL

[Ispray]

So many want to turn out great art but so few want to put in the PRACTICE time. We hear all the time I just got a new AB and practiced a couple of hours why can't I get the great results with my AB, do I need the top of the line brush?

[dungeonworks]

Originally Posted by Ispray

So many want to turn out great art but so few want to put in the PRACTICE time. We hear all the time I just got a new AB and practiced a couple of hours why can't I get the great results with my AB, do I need the top of the line brush?

It's also important to stay in practice. I know if I get lazy and don't spray for a bit, man, it takes me a good hour to warm up!!!

The answer to the "what is the best airbrush" question will always lie with the individual artist. Some may have the same conclusion and prefferences, but others will not. Take my choice for instance. I really like the Richpen line of airbrushes but have had the worst of luck with the Iwata's I've owned. I am still seeking the perfect one (I cannot wait to try the Harder & Steenbeck Evolutions when they come available!!!). Of the airbrushes I have had or still have:

Have and use
Richpen Apollo 113c
Richpen Gemini 313c
Peak X-5
Paasche VL (kit)

Had
Richpen Pheonix 212b
Iwata CM-C
Iwata HP-C
Badger 360
T&C Omni 3000 and 4000

I think a lot of it also depends on when you try each airbrush. If I had the CM-C now, I would be much more able to use it to it's fuller potential than I did when I had it. That was when it became evident to me that no matter the airbrush, the hand using it is the key to airbrush control. At that time, I could do no better with the CM-C than I could with my Badger 360.

My best advice, get and try as many different brand (major brands, knockoff's are a gamble but that would be another thread altogether). I have gotten many at local pawn shops for pennys on the dollar as well as various auctions and such.

Happy New Year!
Gary

PS

HOLY COW did I just ramble or what! I think my wife made this morning's coffee a tad strong!

[pork chop]

I'm interressing to buy a badger 100LG, did someone know if will be better for detail then the badger 150 (who i like)

i'm presently working with a anthem 155 (medium) an a badger 150 fine. never try the gravity and i read on this place your give a good evaluation on that one (for the price to) and i read on a other forum a guy said the 100 was the same to him then the 100 fine, now i'm confuse don't wont to spend 160.00$ for nothing.

thanx

[pork chop]

ooops mean 100 fine was the same then the 155? i told you i was confuse

[Snuff]

The top loading brushes are easier to use for reasons already stated.
And once again (at the risk of sounding redundant) the level to which you 've
built your skills will determine which make and model to choose.
Personally I've found that i can get the same detail out of the coarser tipped brushes as i can from the ones that are built like swiss watches.
The key thing is to enjoy this "addiction" and have fun.

[Diaz Dezine]

I've been a production artist for the better of 8 years and I've always have used an Iwata HP-BC(plus) bottle fed, HP-C top fed and eclipse g6, both bottle and top. Yes it does take more pressure for siphon but I can get some intence detail. Lower pressures do work best with top feed but I am not as comfortable.My HP-BC is my workhorse but like Don says it's practice with your fingers, hand,eye and body movements that takes total control of the airbrush, not letting the airbrush control you.
Did I make any sense there?

[grinnen30]

What?? Brushes have mind control capabilities...that explains a lot...

[Diaz Dezine]

Yes....I am the airbrush whisperer...I rehabilitate the airbrush and train my mind. (quit laughin' grinnen)

[kant76]

my 10 cent I have now had 3 airbrushes over the last 4 month. I started with an aztec dualaction. couldent get a line that was smaller than 8 mm. then I bought my iwata eclipse hp-cs and for my birthday I got a ricter 2000 ab.
the iwata by far the most versatile airbrush I have and can do nice small detail with it. the ricter is af fine art ab but it much more hard to controll compared to my iwata. both brushes are gravety feed.

[pitontheprowl]

I have played with a couple different brushes and I like my 155 Anthem the best because it seems to fit my hand a little better.
The best thing I could say is get what you can afford to get started and then practice.
I tell people the same thing what join my kayak club, get what will get you on the water. Everyone has likes and dislikes. Everyone will tell you "theirs" is the best on the market and that is the one you need.

[Bmod]

Its like martial arts. There's all these different forms, all of them you are trained in different movements and styles, but all of them do the same thing, defend you. You have all different types of airbrushes, they're all going to bring the same outcome, you just decide on which type you want to train with. Some people train on more than one kind of brush, some people only use a siphon single and swear theres no other way, while some can't imagine using anything but a dual action gravity feed with air control.

[Kaiilla]

I recently got the LG100 and have only tried it with the fine tip. I'm not happy. The space between the cup and the trigger is too small. My finger presses against the cup when the needle is forward (closed) and I do not have large hands. Very average for a guy.

[PAULYBOY]

Originally Posted by Bmod

Its like martial arts. There's all these different forms, all of them you are trained in different movements and styles, but all of them do the same thing, defend you. You have all different types of airbrushes, they're all going to bring the same outcome, you just decide on which type you want to train with. Some people train on more than one kind of brush, some people only use a siphon single and swear theres no other way, while some can't imagine using anything but a dual action gravity feed with air control.

As someone returning to the art, after having taken years off to raise kids in a single household and train for 12 years in Tae Kwon Do, I'd like to clarify one thing- it's just as important to fit the art, don't just choose one and blindly stick with it. Different mental and physical acuities dictate different skill levels, with airbrushes, with martial arts, with life.

"Most Pro's get money for everytime they pitch a companies product."

As they should, unforunately in the airbrush world this doesn't happen the airbrush companies don't pay for endorsements. Why pay for something you are getting free? As you just did for Paasche folks that airbrush provide the airbrush companies with free endorsements all the time. Until we treat ourselves as professionals we won't be treated or PAID as such.

[KDSilverBrush]

I use a badger 150, ( noob here) and the one thing I have learned , is that it does'nt like createx paints , it clogs more easily and I get a lot of blow outs , so I switched to Com Art, and man oh man what a difference, I also found that I like working in a quiet environment with no one else around, why that surprised me I'll never know, its the way I like to oil paint too LOL I have dreams of owning a gravity fed ab someday ................

[Airbrush Dreams]

Originally Posted by KDSilverBrush

I use a badger 150, ( noob here) and the one thing I have learned , is that it does'nt like createx paints , it clogs more easily and I get a lot of blow outs , so I switched to Com Art, and man oh man what a difference, I also found that I like working in a quiet environment with no one else around, why that surprised me I'll never know, its the way I like to oil paint too LOL I have dreams of owning a gravity fed ab someday ................

I just baught an Iwata HPC Pluss three months ago and I love working with it. Createx seems to clog the tip, but that is comon with createx. I run any where from 25 to 35 lbs air with very little overspray.

[Airbrush Dreams]

Originally Posted by Airbrush Dreams

I just baught an Iwata HPC Pluss three months ago and I love working with it. Createx seems to clog the tip, but that is comon with createx. I run any where from 25 to 35 lbs air with very little overspray.

I also own an Iwata Custom Micron Side Feed that I barely ever use that I could be convinced into selling if anyone is interested. It is in excelent condition.

[harrigan]

Originally Posted by Airbrush Dreams

I also own an Iwata Custom Micron Side Feed that I barely ever use that I could be convinced into selling if anyone is interested. It is in excelent condition.

how much for the micron?

[fontgeek]

Originally Posted by Kaiilla

I recently got the LG100 and have only tried it with the fine tip. I'm not happy. The space between the cup and the trigger is too small. My finger presses against the cup when the needle is forward (closed) and I do not have large hands. Very average for a guy.

I know it may sound silly, but you might try changing the way you hold the brush. I've had a ton of students who have had the same problem you are having, and or hand cramping, the shakes, etc.

Try holding the brush so that your hand is relaxed, and with your pointer/index finger extended and relaxed when the trigger is all the way forward, with just the tip of your finger on the button.

As far as the best detail gun, there are a few factors, many of which have been mentioned here. But you also have to take into consideration the type of paint or finish you need to, or plan on using. While I can get spectacular detail out of my Paasche AB Turbo with inks, watercolors, or dyes, it would be useless for something like Createx.
As Don and others have mentioned, the bulk of the capability is with the painter, however your tool can have it's limitations too.

Ideally, you would go and try as many different models and makes as you can before you do any buying. Consider the kind of work you intend on doing, and keep in mind the kind of paint or finish(es) you plan on spraying.

But beware any brand or make that you can only get through one person or store. those people have you in a grip. They set the prices and availability on parts, shipping, etc. They can also change the quality of the stuff they sell, and you have no where to go. You can't get competitive pricing because there is nobody else selling their brushes or parts. As soon as a seller is bragging about some line of brushes being "Exclusive", you want to be heading the other way.

Good brushes shouldn't have to be "Tuned" when they are new. If they don't work right coming out of their boxes, then you don't want to be dealing with them anyway.

[KDSilverBrush]

Originally Posted by pork chop

ooops mean 100 fine was the same then the 155? i told you i was confuse

Hi Pork Chop, I use a badger 150 and I don't have any problem doing fine detail work, or large fill areas. I'm sure there are better name brand ab's, but my badger works just fine for me, for now.

[MikeV]

Originally Posted by pork chop

ooops mean 100 fine was the same then the 155? i told you i was confuse

With the proper paint the 100LG with a fine tip will spray finer than the 155 as it has a micro-tip and not a standard cone tip. It is an illustration airbrush and the 155 Anthem was designed for T-shirt art although it works great for many other things as well.

[MikeV]

Badger is coming out with the new Renegade line also that looks and sounds very promising. It has some new designs and materials and sounds like it could possibly be one of the best fine line airbrushes ever made.
I can't wait to try one.