Thread: CREATEX AUTO-BORNE

Looking forward to getting some feedback Don. Ordered my stock a few days ago. Aparently, you still reduce with the 4011 reducer. Seams that its compatible with AA water base paint but they dont recommend mixing them.Auto-Borne Colors perform unlike any other Auto Air Colors .

Taken from the AA site!

Unlike other colors which are water-based,
Auto-Borne Colors are waterbornemeaning the colors contain solvent for exceptional performance. Auto-
Borne have virtually no tip-dry, superior control able pull long & continuous lines without skipping or grainy
over-spray, work with all airbrush tip-sizes and dry incredibly fast. Auto-Borne Colors are lightfast and
durable. Pigments are highly-refined and lightfast for superior atomization without fading. All Auto-Borne
Color pigments are exterior-grade with a 7 to 8 out of 8 on a Blue Wool Scale (BWS).
• Auto-Borne is compatiblewith other Auto Air Colors and may be inter-coated in any manner. Direct intermixing
is not recommended.
• Auto-Borne is reduced with 4011 Flash Reducer. Recommended reduction for use with spray-guns is
approximately 10% per volume. For airbrush use, reduce 3:1 or greater depending upon tip-size and
preference. Operating PSI varies per gun. Spray gun PSI is recommended@ 35 with a 1.2mm tip-size.
• Top-coat with a catalyzed, urethane clear.
• Auto-Borne Colors are semi-opaque but may be reduced down to a transparent color which is better
suited for detailed, fine-line airbrushing with small tip-sized airbrushes.
• Auto-Borne follows preparation and application processes the same as other Auto Air Colors. For further
information, refer to Auto Air Application Guide.


Cant wait to try them!!

Luc

Thats sound right Don!

On important note about the 4011 reducer, make sure you are using the latest version of it. here is how to identify it:

NEW & IMPROVED FORMULAS
The batch codes on the new formulas begin with the letter G or H and do not have a “#” sign in the sequence. New 4011 Flash Reducers have a batch code; older reducer formulas do not. The batch code is an alpha-numeric sequence on the label’s side imprint area which is printed above the color name, size & UPC code. Please contact us or your local dealer for more information.

Believe me there is a serious difference between the 2.

Luc

Check the batch code on the 4011 reducers....it has been reformulated in the past couple weeks. The newest version (made to compliment the Auto Borne series) has a batch code that begins with the letter "P". From what I understand, the major difference is the amount of alchohol in the reducer.

AA sent me a sample of Autoborne white, black, as well as a couple of the new candy (pigment) colors. I just ordered and recieved 32 oz of the AB white as well. Haven't had the chance to spray them, but will be using the new white this week for the airbrush demonstrations, so I'll have some feedback this weekend.

Word on the street is the new "Wicked Colors" by createx is EXACTLY the same paint as the new Auto Borne......haven't confirmed that yet, but that's the rumor I heard.

Big D

Sweet....can't wait to try it this week....won't be doing much detail work except some cracks in the granite, but will be interesting to see how it lays down over large areas as well. Didn't see any graininess in those pics, which is good.....that's been my biggest complaint with the semi-opaque white in the past. I'll let ya know what I think.

Big D

Thanks Don,

I'm getting mine today to try it out.

...question, since I'm new at solvent based paint, with what do you clean your airbrushes? Same stuff used to clean a spray gun after spraying clear?

Thanks

Luc

Originally Posted by don johnson

Luc

I won't call it a solvent based paint.

It's water born I just used water when I cleaned my airbrushes it worked fine much better than the old concrete Auto Air you could never could clean out of your airbrushes

You might watch the color in your color cup it looked to me the reducer and paint sort of seperated if it sat for awhile, just put your thumb over the top of the color cup and give it a shake.

I think you'll like it.

Ok Don, thanks a bunch for the clarification....i was woundering how come we could reduce it with the 4011 reducer!!...now I have my answer.

Will certainly post my impressions once I've tried it. Everyone who has says that it work very well.

Luc

I got my Auto-Borne paint last night and gave the black and white a go at it.

My first impression is...WOW! I reduced the paint with the 4011 reducer (2 drops of paint for 3 drops of reducer) with the batch code number starting with a ''P'' and it worked very very well in mt Micron CM-SB airbrushes.

I have nothing woth showing because I did nothing really but simple dagger strokes. I was able to do some very very small lines with both colors and working between 25 and 30 PSI.

This looks like a winner. I can't compare to the urethane paints since I never tried them...and with this new version, I think its going to be awhile before I do!

Luc

OK

I've been using the Auto Borne White and Black all week long for my demos. Wow! I definately see a difference, not only in how it sprays for detail, but also for covering large areas.

I've been spraying right out of the 4 oz bottle, using an Iwata BCS .5mm brush (with a worn out nozzle LOL).

I've had to play around a bit to get a reduction % that I liked, and ended up around 50% reduced with the 4011 reducer (with the P code).

WHITE

Once I got it reduced to where I liked, it sprayed very nicely. For covering large areas, I had to apply very thin coats, building the intensity of the color very slowly, using a blow drier to help it flash off. If I got it on there a bit "wet" it would fisheye on me pretty bad. All in all, I had to apply several more "thinner" coats vrs the water based, but the finished product was MUCH BETTER!!! This stuff lays on smooth.....almost like a uro. No grainy appearance or rough texture. Reduced 50% washed a bit of the color out, though, and took a bit more to build up a really bright white.

As far as detail......even with a worn out nozzle in a .5mm brush, at 90 psi at the gauge (approx 65 psi at the gun) I was able to spray consistant pencil thin fine lines. I think this is what really impressed Bill at the demo, and convinced him to relook AA and AB products. All in All.....VERY NICE.

BLACK

The pigment of the black is very dark! Finally! I reduced the black 50% with the 4011 reducer (P code) and sprayed consitant fine lines. One of the things I didn't like about using AA black.....I had to thin it extremely to get it to flow for fine detail. This amount of thinning really washed out the color intensity of the black, and would have to make several passes to build up a nice black color. The AB Black, even reduced, sprayed extremely dark (reminded me of Golden's Black), just like a uro. I found it easy to fade in and out, without a grainy haze. It also laid down much smoother than the water based.



Much reduced tip dry (although still more prevelant than when spraying a uro), improved flow, smoothness, atomization all make this Water Borne Variation of Auto Air a definate home run. I spray ALOT of AA products, so I see a marked improvement with the Water Borne line. The pigments being grounded smaller makes for a much smoother finish. Another huge plus!

All in all, it's not quite a uro, but it's danged close. If you like the advantages of water based (time window, cleanup, enviromentally friendly) but found it a bit difficult to work with, I highly reccomend picking up a bottle of the Auto Borne and give it a try. It's definately worth giving the Auto Air line of paints another look.

Big D

Without a doubt I was impressed with the smoothness of the waterbourne and was wowed by the the pencil thin line Big D acheived with ease. Since I'm still moving my shop I have not even ordered any paint but I can't wait to try it. When I was watching Big D spray I was wondering what tricks he was using to reduce the tip dry. The water bourne is just that good.

Big D you need to contact Auto-Air. Don't fergit it!

Bill

OK....

Just wanted to illustrate how good this stuff is. I sprayed both the Auto Borne White and Black. Both are reduced 1:1 with the 4011 reducer (P code).

These are sprayed with an Iwata Eclipse BCS .5mm brush. The nozzle on the brush is seriously worn out and needs replaced (the needle sticks out a good 3/16" from the tip of the nozzle).

I drew a few lines with a .5mm mechanical pencil, and one line with a blue ball point pen....

Hard time telling which is which.....

#1 and #3 are the mechanical pencil
#5 is the ball point pen

Remember this is with a .5mm brush! Imagine what can be done with a micron!!!!!

Big D

I agree 200% with Big D!!!

I've posted something I'm working on at

http://airbrushtechnique.com/forums/...tml#post132801

Luc

Where did you get the new auto borne? I have looked at several sites and have not found it listed to purchase.On the aac site they have the pdf file about the new autoborne but they don't have it listed for sale yet

Thanks Don

I got my first order of AA Water Bourne yesterday, unfortunately the black is on back order so I'm getting first hand results bouncing back and forth with regular Auto Air and the Water Bourne.
Let me say this, I've been having one heck of a time with the AA and tip dry. I've strained it, cut it with reducer and still have problems. With the Water Bourne, there is hardly any tip dry and it does spray much smoother.
Sure can't wait for the rest of my order to come... and other than the exotic shades, will probably NOT use regular AA unless absolutely necessary. Small details come out much easier with Water Bourne.

One tip most already know, I've found that a small funnel and some old nylon stockings make a great strainer.... although its to fine for any metallics for sure.

Cliff

Hi there. If been trying out a sample of the new auto air waterborne and yes this paint is verry good. What I dont get is that auto air just changes formula without clearly telling customers especially here in the Netherlands( for example the P on the batch code for the new 4011).
I get the idea that they just dont care.We have to find it on the internet..

Anyway , good news is that this paint is very good in my opinion.

Greetings, Patrick

Hi,
i've just tested the 4011 p on the batch to the 4011 g on the batch.
They both worked the same i reduced 400 to 500% without any problem they both
reduced very good.

Lion

can you use water to thin it down or do you need the redurces thanks

I would venture to guess that the "p" and "g" in the batch names are markers for the vendors/retailers so that they can rotate their stock. Like the paints themselves, solvents and reducers can degrade over time, so having a marker lets the manufacturer notify it's vendors to pull older stock if and when it becomes unuseable or problematic.
For you, the users, the only time the difference in the markers would be an issue is if you were using very old stock, then the newer batch would probably work better.
Manufacturers typically try to fine tune the recipe/formula for their products, and it may be just a tiny tweak on the formula itself. If you aren't seeing a difference in performance, then don't worry, if you are seeing a difference then make sure you buy the one that works better for you.

I have read this thread with great interest. I have used Golden colours for a number of years and find them 'the best'. I would like the paint to be less delicate when on the job in hand but have come to accept this.On the up side I don't get tip dry.
I tried AA and gave it a good amount of time. I found it to be akin to spraying glue and when reducing it down to a level fit for spraying it no longer had any descent colour left in it. I still use the candies because I will only use water based paint.
Can someone convince me that this new paint is better that Golden airbrush paints.

Doug