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Thread: Millenium Valve Issue

  1. #1
    **SUPPORTING MEMBER** aiScribbler is on a distinguished road aiScribbler's Avatar
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    Default Millenium Valve Issue

    OK,

    I did a fundraiser event this weekend & was knocking out the Tshirts. As I always do, I gave my Milleniums a serious cleaning & prep, with special attention shown in cleaning.

    After straining & reducing my Createx, loading my bottles & giving a test run, I found that 6 of my 8 guns were working great, while the remaining 2 had no spring or trigger action at all.

    There is sufficient air in the lines (running at 65psi) and switching brushes to these hoses shows no issue with air supply.

    I performed a simple breakdown, thinking there must be residue in the valve assembly which was preventing my plunger from working. With the trigger removed, I used the blunt end of an old needle to replace the trigger & was able to get sufficient spring response & the plunger was working without issue. However, when I replaced the trigger it responded as though it cannot reach the plunger, leaving no spring response at all.

    So, I adjusted the airvalve nut, thinking it wasn't seated correctly. Nada.

    I'm open to suggestions. Both guns are fairly new & should not have any issues like this because I keep them religiously cleaned... It seems like I had a little issue with trigger action on these from the go. I keep my guns on the same color & hose placement to keep me up on any issues.

    Would a new valve assembly help?

    I've another fundraiser coming, and I really missed those two guns at this one, so throw me a bone.

    Regards
    Scrib
    AirXpression

  2. #2
    **SUPPORTING MEMBER** fontgeek is a jewel in the rough fontgeek is a jewel in the rough fontgeek is a jewel in the rough fontgeek is a jewel in the rough
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Just so I'm understanding properly, you are referring to the vertical trigger motion, the one controlling the air?

    If the trigger uses a swiveling piston like the VL range of brushes then you should check to make sure it (the piston section) is clean and smooth. If it (the piston) is a separate piece like those on an Olympos, Grex, or Iwata brush, then you should pull that piston, make sure it is clean. You should also check the seal it goes through, if it is gummy or sticky, it may be enough to keep the piston from moving through it freely. The diameter of the needle is much smaller than that of the piston that would normally go through it. If the seal is dirty, then try cleaning it, if it is gummy then you have to replace it. Like most airbrushes, from most manufacturers, those seals were never meant to be exposed to solvents or even water for that matter.

    Also check the opening in the trigger mast where the needle goes through, if there is paint or gunk in that opening, then it can keep you from getting the normal vertical range of motion. It happens, but not often.

  3. #3
    **SUPPORTING MEMBER** wokka wokka is on a distinguished road
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Have you tried swapping parts with one of the working guns? Swap one thing at a time (trigger, valve, and so on), putting them back in their original place before swapping the next part.

    That at least should narrow it down to which specific part is at fault.

    Did you have the valcves out when cleaning them? If so are you 100% sure they were re-assembled correctly, so no O-rings or spacers that went back in the wrong place, making the valve sit lower?

    I'm not familiar with that model of airbrush, but the above is just my basic fault finding technique for most things.
    But.....what if Google is wrong?

  4. #4
    **SUPPORTING MEMBER** aiScribbler is on a distinguished road aiScribbler's Avatar
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    I've pulled the pistons & checked the valves... I suspect it is an O ring issue. I cleaned my guns with Createx restorer (first time using the stuff) and that might have gummed the rings up a little. The restorer solution is very aggressive, and I should have pulled the rings before cleaning... live & learn. I have to say, I was impressed with what was removed from otherwise 'clean' guns.

    The plungers are clean & smooth, and there is no visible paint in any of the areas which would cause this. The trigger is similar to the VL, with the only real exception in design being a better trigger cap.

    I had already swapped out stuff from other guns, thinking there might have been one that was a little fickle, but it still made no difference. Springs fit well, and everything else seems to be OK, So... my money is on the rings, a cheap but irritating fix.

    Thanks for the direction... sometimes it just helps to have a little confirmation.

    Regards
    Scrib
    AirXpression

  5. #5
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Did you try swapping out the airvalve from another brush of the same model?
    As it was stated it would isolate the area that's causing the problems.

    I am guessing that the O-ring you are referring to is in the airvalve assembly. I guess my questions would be; What got to the O-ring to do the damage or contamination? You stated that you used the tail end of a needle in place of the trigger and piston, and that the valve seemed to move freely, if that is true that it moved freely, then you have something else that is causing the trigger to hang up. The PDF supplied by Paasche for this model is a simplified image, so it's tough to tell what might be causing your problems.

    I doubt you do it, but for you and other airbrushers, NEVER submerge your airbrush in solvents if you can avoid it. The potential damage and contamination to areas that were never intended to be exposed to solvents or paints can be disastrous (to put it mildly), between destroying O-rings, getting paint into air passages and the airvalve and the trigger well (the area around where the trigger fits into the airbrush body), and the back end of the brush, you leave yourself with all kinds of messes to deal with, and replacements and repairs can be expensive an time consuming, not to mention the time it takes to diagnose the actual problems and causes themselves.

    With any cleaner, look at the actual active ingredients, or check the MSDS (Material Safety Data Sheet) some cleaners list themselves a being perfectly safe, but when you look at the actual ingredients you may find that they are not so innocent as they portray themselves to be. It's up to you to protect yourself and your equipment.

  6. #6
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Font,

    I don't submerge, however, I am rather sloppy when cleaning the inside, and I suspect that the airbrush restorer solution might have gotten onto the valve washer (which was what I was referring to as the o-ring) and caused it to swell. The brushes worked until I used this solution (made by Createx) to clean my guns... it's very aggressive stuff, and I'd never used it before.

    I've swapped out valves but not the washer, and I keep getting the same issue, which tends to confirm to me that it is a washer related issue. I've ordered replacements, which I should have on hand anyway. As soon as I get them, later this week, I'll replace them in these two guns.

    I haven't had the time to fool with taking the washers out of these to see if they're gummy or swollen, but it seems to be what the evidence is pointing to.

    Thanks for the input.
    Scrib
    AirXpression

  7. #7
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    OK,

    I disassembled the valves again, this time I removed the valve washer. It is definitely swollen, because it will not even allow me to re-assemble & seat the valve plunger as normal. So, I suspect replacing the washer will solve the issue.

    Air can be tricky, but, as with water, it always chooses the path of least resistance. The air can't get past the plunger because the washer is too tight.

    Now, I have to patiently wait for the delivery of my new washers.

    I'll keep everyone posted on results.
    Scrib
    AirXpression

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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Again, be careful with what you use as cleaners or solvents.
    Many manufacturers have reported problems with the use of solvents like xylene in their spray guns and brushes, it makes the O-rings and washers swell and stay that way. Normally your seals and packing behind the needle packing would never come in contact with paint or solvents anyway, but all it takes is a tiny bit of the wrong material to do a lot of damage.

    I would order several of those seals, the shipping cost will be the same, and it stops you from the delays in the future, and given the fact that you are using a gaggle of the same model, it is probably a safe bet that they (the O-rings/seals) will get used in the not to distant future.

    I wish you the best of luck, keep us posted on this. I'd like to know the cause for the original problem, and to find out whether the replacemement of the seals is the answer.

  9. #9
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    Default Re: Millenium Valve Issue

    Update:

    I just received my order of new valve washers & needle packing washers, and have replaced the first set in one of the above mentioned guns, along with a little lube for both. Now the trigger action is as it ought to be... all is right in the world again.

    For the record, this is the first time I have ever used an agent stronger than isopropyl alcohol or non-ammonia Windex to clean my brushes. I purchased & used some of the Createx restorer, which worked very well, however, I wasn't cautious enough & (apparently) some of the solvent got to my washers, causing the issue. So... be warned... this solvent is powerful & a little goes a long way. I've got my original airbrushes still in fine working condition & have never had to replace the first washer due to this issue... new ground for me.

    Anyway, they seem to be working well now, and I'm anxious to try running paint through them again.

    Thanks all.
    Scrib
    AirXpression

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