Thread: Cleaning helmet mid job with AA

Not sure if this has been covered before, couldn't find an answer via search. How do you clean a helmet during a paint job when using Auto Air? Like fingerprints or smudges caused while taping or masking. Maybe the better question is what can I use to clean with, or can I at all?

I try to avoid it at all costs! Wear gloves alot to help reduce those nasty little buggers. There was a post sometime back about cleaning AA. Never tried it myself, but I'm told that you can use a very mild degreaser (preps-all was the name, I think.....) without tearing your paintwork up. I'd try it on a test panel first, Just in case.........

Big D

Wax remover and degrease works well .....just don't rub to hard and be careful. You cant use it over candies though.

Originally Posted by foe

Wax remover and degrease works well .....just don't rub to hard and be careful. You cant use it over candies though.

Is this something I can get locally? Is it not waterbased? Im going to try and be very careful, but just in case I would like to be prepared.

Hmm,i wouldn't use any liquid on waterbased paints to clean up
the surface,,,it will ruin your paintwork in no time if you touch the surface with a wet rag,,,i use ICI(NEXA) autocolors also waterbased
i only use a tack rag to remove dust from overspray and such,
never had any issues with grease from my fingers on the paint
but i try to avoid touching the surface anyway when painting just to be on the safe side ,
/kimmo

Originally Posted by landsbro

Hmm,i wouldn't use any liquid on waterbased paints to clean up
the surface,,,it will ruin your paintwork in no time if you touch the surface with a wet rag,,,i use ICI(NEXA) autocolors also waterbased
i only use a tack rag to remove dust from overspray and such,
never had any issues with grease from my fingers on the paint
but i try to avoid touching the surface anyway when painting just to be on the safe side ,
/kimmo

Thanks, Ive been using just a tack rag. The only problem I have is that alot of my designs require quite a bit of fine line taping, so Im handling the lid constantly. If I wear latex gloves. I cannot manipulate the tape as needed. If I don't wear gloves im touching the helmet alot. Im sure ill figure it out, just trying to minimize the mistakes that WILL happen

I'm with BigD on this. AVOID touching it! I've tried a couple of things like degreaser. If you rub it just a bit too hard (even if it has cured for days)...bye-bye art, hello scratches. SOLUTION: stay way from the paint job!

L

Originally Posted by lsabourin

I'm with BigD on this. AVOID touching it! I've tried a couple of things like degreaser. If you rub it just a bit too hard (even if it has cured for days)...bye-bye art, hello scratches. SOLUTION: stay way from the paint job!

L

I hear ya, I just dont see how that is possible when doing a ton of fine line taping. I have a helmet right now that will have white and green pins with a black base. After basing the lid white, ive been laying out a large amount of fine line striping all over the helmet. I cant see any possible way of not touching it. Im gonna just have to really keep the hands clean I guess!

I have rarely had to clean a product midway as far as fingerprints. Here is some of the things I do to prevent oil dirt and wax from getting on there in the first place.

1. Wash hands with rubbing alchohol to rid of most oil on the skins surface or wear cloves. Either way I try not to touch the work at all. If accidentally do usually no problem.
2. Preps-all the project, whipe, scuff, tape and mask, prep again and whipe again, lightly tack rag.
3. Do not touch the project anywhere but on the masking or backside until it is done and clearcoated.
4. Do not hover over the project so much dust will fall onto it.
5. Blow it off occasionally.
6. Nobody gets to close to my work at all not even the customer or I skold them.
7. Wash hand after eating, shaking hands, using the bathroom, or anything that could make them slightly dirty.
8. When using mettalic flakes in paint job it is better to blow all the dust off then to tack cloth. Tack cloth will get stuck and tug on the flakes.
9. I have never used fisheye eliminator ever. No need for it if you make certain your set up is right with filters and you drain your tank and you prepped the part properly and you did the paint job all the way through without oiling it up.


Here are some things I do if I see someone else put some oil on my product or I just do not trust that someone did not touch the product.

1. Do not soak the fingerprint area with preps all. Put it on a cloth that will not give off lint so much and let it be damp not soaked.
2. Try to blow off the lint before using a tack cloth.
3. Tack cloths have wax in them and if you push to hard you will have a wax problem to deal with not fun or easy.
4. Repeat again 1-3 You still may have to touch up airbrush some things after this.
5. You can clean up overspray if the overspray is on the skuffed cleared part but if your paint is thick this could pose problems. After cleaning up over spray I always go back in and gently sand the edges with 1000 grit and finish off with airbrushing touch ups.
6. When clearing even the most perfect product there is still a possibility of something being in the paint job that is invisble to the eye until cleared. Blow off the product before clearing. Mist coat 2 - 3 times wait 3-5 minutes in between each mist coat and blow off everytime before misting. Then light coat. Blow off and medium coat and so on.

Just some of the things that I do. Hope there might be some usefull info in this to help you out.


Brad

i'm using a home made helmet stand,a piece of wood with the top
coverd with foam rubber this helps to hold the helmet in place
this stand is mounted on my working place/table with a bolt
so i can turn the helmet/stand without touching the helmet.
i made a kindof joint i so can tilt the helmet backwards and forward
this stand works for any type of helmet..
you can see a little bit of the stand on this pic,

Originally Posted by motoxguy

I hear ya, I just dont see how that is possible when doing a ton of fine line taping. I have a helmet right now that will have white and green pins with a black base. After basing the lid white, ive been laying out a large amount of fine line striping all over the helmet. I cant see any possible way of not touching it. Im gonna just have to really keep the hands clean I guess!

Motox, what I do and seems to work, is that I tear just the end of the finger tips on my gloves (thumb and index) so that the back of it is still covered. This gives you better feel. The other hand is intact and you can use it to press the tape down.

L

Originally Posted by lsabourin

Motox, what I do and seems to work, is that I tear just the end of the finger tips on my gloves (thumb and index) so that the back of it is still covered. This gives you better feel. The other hand is intact and you can use it to press the tape down.

L

Thats a great idea. I will start doing that immediately. Thanks.
Thanks everyone else as well, your info is all really helpful and I will be applying your knowledge when i do screw something up.

Originally Posted by motoxguy

Is this something I can get locally? Is it not waterbased? Im going to try and be very careful, but just in case I would like to be prepared.

The wax and grease remover I bought was from an automotive paint store near my house and it actually had there name on it.I think they all are made pretty much of the same type of mineral spirits....I think ....its been a while since I looked at the label. I do know that you have to use it lightly on auto air paints.Forget about removing a heavy fingerprint because you have to rub to hard. It will remove over spray but you have to be ever so gentle.And forget about using over candies I tried and it removes the candy paint because thats like a dye and it never really dries....I think I read that on the tech sheets.